Indonesian cuisine is vast and varied. Artha Rini celebrates it all.

★ (Good)

From immoderate of the six tables successful Artha Rini’s compact eating room, look to the ordering model and you volition find Artharini, the restaurant’s cook and namesake, moving successful a abstraction not overmuch wider than a hallway. Pots and pans screen the stove, and retention containers filled with rice, spices and adust ingredients emergence from each surface. The archetypal clip I flipped done the Kensington, Maryland, restaurant’s heavy paper book, I wondered however the cook could make truthful overmuch with truthful little. Then the nutrient started coming.